Savoring Earth Day with Wine

At its core, winemaking is farming. Wine is defined by its “terroir”. Terroir is the natural environment in which a particular wine is produced, including soil, topography, and climate. Growing grapes requires financial and human capital. Unlike traditional row crops, which can be rotated yearly, planting a grapevine is a commitment to the future. After a vine is planted, producing high-quality fruit worthy of making into wine takes several years. Globally, grapevines cover nearly 19 million acres and produce more than 70 million tons of fruit annually, making grapes the world’s most important fruit crop. About 70% of those grapes go into making wine; the remainder is used for table grapes, juice, or raisins. As we approach Earth Day, I wanted to teach you more about the special viticulture practices that aim to be environmentally sound, economically viable, and socially equitable.

Definition of Viticulture

Viticulture is the term used for the branch of agriculture that specially deals with the intentional cultivation of grapevines.

Organic Viticulture

Organic viticulture is grape growing without the use of pesticides or manufactured fertilizers. The USDA National Organic Program (NOP) designates the criteria and certification a grower must meet to be approved as organic. A vineyard must be free of the prohibited materials on NOP’s list for at least three years. The most significant restricted material involves sulfur. Sulfur is an inorganic element that controls bacteria and fungi and is not allowed for wines labeled “Organic Wine.” Without the protection of sulfur, organic wines must be handled more delicately and be refrigerated to maintain quality.

To be labeled “Organic Wine,” a wine must be made from at least 95% certified organic grapes and follow the criteria provided by NOP. Wines made with 100% certified organic grapes may use the term “100% organic” on their labels or “Made with Organic Grapes.”

While other countries have their own procedures and rules for organic certification, wines sold in the U.S. cannot be labeled as organic without being certified by NOP. Wines produced and sold in the EU may be labeled organic or “Vin Biologique” if they contain 30-50% less added sulfur.

Biodynamic Viticulture

One of the most interesting practices, at least to me, is biodynamic viticulture. This practice follows the mandates of organic viticulture and adds metaphysical elements like planet alignment, stars, and moon phases. The philosophy dates back to the 1920s and is often called “more organic than organic.” The biodynamic calendar follows four categories (Root, Leaf, Flower, and Fruit days) and aligns with the classical elements of Earth, Water, Air, and Fire.

Root days = Pruning
Leaf days = Watering
Flower days = Leave the vineyard only and let it do its thing
Fruit days = Harvesting

Certification as a biodynamic vineyard is through a private organization called Demeter International, not through the USDA.

Sustainable Viticulture

Sustainable practices have the same goals as organic and biodynamic, but an added commitment to social goals and economic vitality. Unlike other viticulture practices, this concept does not have a black-and-white set of rules to follow and does not have a governing certification process. Sustainable viticulture is a commitment to the long-term future of the environment, society, and wine growing.

Facts, definitions, and stats credit: Society of Wine Educators 2021 Certified Specialist of Wine Study Guide